Jing Jin (E11): “Nothing Is Easy in China, but Everything Is Possible”

Now Deputy General Manager China – Fashion & Lifestyle at LBB Asia, she gives us her take on the retail sector in China and the role of international players in this market. 

ESSEC Alumni: Why did you return to Shanghai after starting your career in Paris? 

Jing Jin: I spent four years working for Petit Bateau in France when the brand suggested that I return to China to develop the local market there, as well as across around 10 Asian markets.

EA: After Petit Bateau, where you ultimately spent six years, you led the Chinese subsidiaries of two iconic French brands: Agnès b. and ELLE. With hindsight, how would you compare these two experiences?

J. Jin: Agnès b. is a family company, while ELLE is part of the Lagardère Group. While both brands were pioneers in China in their respective fields, they have nonetheless adopted a different approach: Agnès b. adopted a direct operation model, with a distribution subsidiary, while ELLE opted for a licensing model, giving operating rights to local partners to develop different product categories – fashion, cosmetics and décor, but also cafés and hair salons! However, the business culture and the values of the parent company cross borders regardless of the chosen structure.

EA: What position do French brands hold in the Chinese market – particularly in the world of fashion?

J. Jin: In the premium and luxury sector, and in particular in women’s fashion, French brands enjoy greater perceived value than their local competitors. The Chinese are very aware of France’s historic and cultural heritage as well as the French way of life. They often mention “French effortless chic”, the “French retro style”, and the “eternal elegance” of the French. 

EA: What assets can French brands showcase in the Chinese market? 

J. Jin: In my experience, French brands are particularly gifted storytellers. They know how to develop strong concepts and a consistent image. They also benefit from unique expertise and, often, a “je ne sais quoi” that makes all the difference: a style, an iconic product, a material... In short, they have a real personality; they don’t try to please everyone, and paradoxically this is what makes them so successful. 

EA: And conversely, what difficulties can French brands encounter in China?

J. Jin: They can have difficulties adapting to the local pace. In China, five years is a generation. The fast pace of the market means brands have to update their products – but also their business models, their distribution channels, and their communication strategies – much more often than elsewhere. 

EA: You now support retail players in Chinese markets. What are the main challenges in this sector in China? 

J. Jin: Omnichannel distribution is more advanced here than in the rest of the world. Consumers are used to going through multiple touch points, both online and offline, before making purchasing decisions. But while online sales have gained the upper hand in retail, physical sales retain a significant presence in the premium and luxury sectors. Brands still need stores to create experiences and to engage in meaningful interactions with their clients. 

EA: What does the future hold for retail in China?

J. Jin: Competition is set to be fierce. Not only are a growing number of international brands bolstering their investments in China, but Chinese brands have also been developing very quickly for a number of years, with the active support of national investment funds.

EA: What advice would you give to a retail player that is looking to establish a presence in China?

J. Jin: The Chinese market has become very expensive. To give yourself the best possible chance, it’s best to get support from local experts and to prepare your entry extremely carefully, anticipating any and all potential points of adjustment: products, packaging, price, communication, distribution... It won’t be enough for you to simply seize an opportunity – you’ll need to have a strategy. And if you don’t have significant financial resources, I recommend that you work with a local partner. In short, nothing is easy in China, but everything is possible!

Interview by Louis Armengaud Wurmser (E10), Content Manager at ESSEC Alumni 

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